This is a DIY alternator that contains 2 sets of coils. Only one set is used in this video. These are standard wall power supplies that are used for household DC rechargeable appliances. www.youtube.com
Monday, December 26, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Simple DC Voltage Regulator 12V to 5V [ Something YOU can DO ;-) ]
in this video i used the voltage regulator L7805 to reduce an input voltage of 12V into 5V .... the circuit schematic is also available... THANKS FOR WATCHING
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Fixing That Annoying Blinking Fluorescent Light
So now its time to roll up our sleeves and get to work. There are some very important guidelines to follow when doing electrical work:
-MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF AND THERE IS NO CHANCE OF IT ACCIDENTALLY BEING TURNED ON WHILE WORKING ON IT.
-Have all the materials you will need for your project. There is nothing worse than being half way in your project to find out you don't have everything you need.
-Have the right tool for the job your doing
Following our safety guide we need to turn the power off to the light. You can just turn the switch off to the light and that will remove power, but we need to make sure nobody will accidentally turn it on when your working on it. So find your fuse box or circuit panel and shut the breaker off as well. Look for breaker tags such as gen lighting, or lighting.
Now that we know we are safe to work on the fluorescent light here are the tools you will need:
-A fiberglass ladder (make sure it is fiberglass when working with electricity because fiberglass does not conduct electricity.)
-Lineman pliers
-Nut driver
-Wire strippers
-Voltage tester
Now that we have our tools we need to rule out some simple fixes. I have been on calls that I felt so bad charging a customer for something they easily could have done themselves. Number one thing to do is replace the bulb. Keep in mind there are two types most commonly found and they are T-12 and T-8. The T-12 is a fat tube and a T-8 is thin in circumference, that's the easiest way to figure out what it is. If your still not sure remove the bulb and look at the end of the tube and there will be a model number on it with either T-12 of T-8 in or around that area.
Ok, so we changed the bulb and it's not the fix. The problem most likely lies in the ballast. By removing the center cover we can access the ballast, you should see wire colors of black, red, blue, yellow, white and green. Before you remove anything you need to make sure you have the right type of ballast. Make sure the model numbers are the same and the type of ballast is the same. All newer fixtures use electronic ballasts, while older models might use rapid start, and magnetic type ballasts as some examples. We know we have the right ballast so what I do before I even remove the ballast is take the black and white wire from the ceiling box and remove it from the ballast without touching the bare copper and test them with your voltage tester to make absolute sure they are dead,cap each one with a wire nut, these wires are what give power to the ballast.
Look at the colors and where there connected to. I then cut the wires with my linesmans pliers after the wire nut. I do this because when you put the new ballast in it will have the same colored leads as the old one, so you can use it to help you reconnect the colors of wires to the light. After you cut the wires remove the ballast with your nut driver making sure not to lose that nut you will need it later!!! CAUTION: The ballast may be hot to the touch, put some gloves on or use a rag when handling the ballast. Install the new ballast by aligning it into the slots and the hole where the nut was. Simply fasten the nut down and the ballast should now be secured to the fixture. Now connect blue to blue, red to red, yellow to yellow using orange wire nuts. Next hook up the black wire being careful because this is your "HOT" wire to the black and the white to the white. One thing you need to do when connecting the wires is to make sure that you twist your wires together, do not just rely on the wire nut. If you do not twist your wires it could cause a fire by not having a good connection.
Place the cover back on the fixture, put some new lamps in and your done.
Turn the breaker back on at the panel, turn the switch on and let there be light. Now the bragging starts.
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Surge Protectors - External and Internal
You should have all of your home appliances running through a surge protector of some kind. It's an easy form of protection against the crippling effects of power surges and is the number one line of defense for safe guarding electronic devices and the sensitive components within them. You can provide protection for your entire home by installing a whole house surge protector at the breaker box, but internal surges can rise and still hurt your equipment beyond the protection of a whole house system.
It is better to install both types, external protection, as mentioned above; and point-of-use protection, which is a single surge protector that plugs into an outlet. In the event of a lightning storm, your external protection can't stop a direct blast of lightning as the surge will be too much for it to absorb. But the surge can filter out throughout your home and the threat can be lessened at an individual appliance where single surge protection is used.
As for your external protection, it may be destroyed by a lighting blast and in that case, will need to be replaced. However, if the strike was at a distance and a surge is caused by affected underground lines, then you will have nothing to worry about as that is exactly what external surge protection is made for. It will protect your home at the point of entry, either at the power meter or on the internal line side of your breaker box.
While that is a lot of information to absorb there is still the matter of choosing the right protection for your appliances. If you look through any surge protector reviews you will see countless types of surge protectors for every kind of appliance. The first and foremost rule on choosing the right protection is to know the difference between a 6 outlet surge protector and a power strip. And the answer you are looking for is simple: a power strip does not protect you from power surges.
A power cord will only provide you a way to plug a lot of appliances into your wall outlet and expose them to surges in electricity. While the two can look the same, only one will benefit you. This will be the one with a Joules rating on the package. This will be the surge protection device that will save your electronics and still allow you to plug a lot of appliances into your wall outlet.
Joules is simply the measure of power that can be absorbed by an appliance surge protector.
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
Easy Household Electrical Tests
Electrical things not working? You can test hundreds of electrical things in your home from appliances to batteries. It's really quite easy.
Electrical devices convert electricity into another form of energy. Included are large and small appliances, computers, telephones, lighting, and lots more. Electrical things convert electrical energy into movement, heat, cold, light, sound, images, and many other useful services.
All you need to test electrical household things is a low-cost continuity tester or a multimeter available at hardware stores. You can buy a continuity tester for less than .00. A multimeter (under ) measures the amount of power (voltage) being applied, electricity (current) being used, and how much resistance it needs to overcome to do the job. Power is measured in volts (V), current is counted in amperes or amps (A), and resistance is calculated in ohms (O).
There's one more electrical term you've probably heard. Defining it will come in handy as you fix electrical devices. A watt is the amount of power consumed by an electrical device when it is running. A 750-watt toaster, for example, uses 750W (watts) of power when toasting your wheat, rye, sourdough, or other bread in the morning.
Continuity Tester
Electricity needs a continuous path or circuit in order to flow. It's like a two-lane road from point A to point B and back. If one or both lanes are blocked, traffic--in this case, electricity--stops. A continuity tester is useful for checking cords and wires to make sure they can conduct electricity.
To use a continuity tester, follow these steps:
1. Disconnect the cord from the power source (electrical receptacle).
2. Make sure any switches on the device are on.
3. Place the continuity tester's clip on one prong of the cord.
4. Touch the tip of the continuity tester to the other prong. If there is continuity, the tester will light up. If not, it won't.
Here's what happens: The continuity tester sends electricity from an internal battery through one cord prong and down the wires. If the light gets electrical current from the other prong it lights up, meaning that the path is good. Otherwise, something is stopping it. Remove the cord from the appliance and test each of the two wires separately to see which one doesn't work. If both work, the short is in the appliance itself.
Multimeter
A multimeter (also called a volt-ohmmeter or VOM) is another way of testing continuity. Use it to measure the amount of alternating current (AC or household current) or direct current (DC or battery current) in a plugged-in or live circuit. It can check voltage, too. For example, a multimeter can verify that there are about 120 volts in an AC circuit or that a 9-volt battery is fully charged. In addition, a multimeter can check resistance. A continuity tester checks resistance, but answers yes or no. A multimeter checks resistance and reports how many ohms (the measurement of resistance) a circuit carries.
You can use a multimeter to test motors, switches, controllers, and many other electrical gadgets. Refer to the multimeter's instruction sheet for specifics.
Here's how to use a multimeter to test an electric appliance:
1. Disconnect the cord from the power source, except when testing a live circuit.
2. Plug the test leads in to the multimeter.
3. Select the function (ACV, DVC, resistance) and the range (maximum reading expected).
4. Connect the probes to the cord or appliance component.
5. Interpret the reading. Refer to the product manual for tips on what may be wrong and what you can do about it. In addition, there are numerous resources online.
Don't let a simple electrical problem keep you from using the power of electricity. A couple of simple electrical tests can help you in fixing household things that break -- instead of tossing them.
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Friday, December 2, 2011
DC TO DC volt footfall up advocate for newman engine
hello to all in this video i like to share same info about a circuit i find in 1 of my electronic books. its a step up dc to dc converter that can bi scald to Anny volt setup u like. and i think its very suitable for using for the NEWMAN ENGINE
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