This is a DIY alternator that contains 2 sets of coils. Only one set is used in this video. These are standard wall power supplies that are used for household DC rechargeable appliances. www.youtube.com
Monday, December 26, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Simple DC Voltage Regulator 12V to 5V [ Something YOU can DO ;-) ]
in this video i used the voltage regulator L7805 to reduce an input voltage of 12V into 5V .... the circuit schematic is also available... THANKS FOR WATCHING
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Fixing That Annoying Blinking Fluorescent Light
So now its time to roll up our sleeves and get to work. There are some very important guidelines to follow when doing electrical work:
-MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF AND THERE IS NO CHANCE OF IT ACCIDENTALLY BEING TURNED ON WHILE WORKING ON IT.
-Have all the materials you will need for your project. There is nothing worse than being half way in your project to find out you don't have everything you need.
-Have the right tool for the job your doing
Following our safety guide we need to turn the power off to the light. You can just turn the switch off to the light and that will remove power, but we need to make sure nobody will accidentally turn it on when your working on it. So find your fuse box or circuit panel and shut the breaker off as well. Look for breaker tags such as gen lighting, or lighting.
Now that we know we are safe to work on the fluorescent light here are the tools you will need:
-A fiberglass ladder (make sure it is fiberglass when working with electricity because fiberglass does not conduct electricity.)
-Lineman pliers
-Nut driver
-Wire strippers
-Voltage tester
Now that we have our tools we need to rule out some simple fixes. I have been on calls that I felt so bad charging a customer for something they easily could have done themselves. Number one thing to do is replace the bulb. Keep in mind there are two types most commonly found and they are T-12 and T-8. The T-12 is a fat tube and a T-8 is thin in circumference, that's the easiest way to figure out what it is. If your still not sure remove the bulb and look at the end of the tube and there will be a model number on it with either T-12 of T-8 in or around that area.
Ok, so we changed the bulb and it's not the fix. The problem most likely lies in the ballast. By removing the center cover we can access the ballast, you should see wire colors of black, red, blue, yellow, white and green. Before you remove anything you need to make sure you have the right type of ballast. Make sure the model numbers are the same and the type of ballast is the same. All newer fixtures use electronic ballasts, while older models might use rapid start, and magnetic type ballasts as some examples. We know we have the right ballast so what I do before I even remove the ballast is take the black and white wire from the ceiling box and remove it from the ballast without touching the bare copper and test them with your voltage tester to make absolute sure they are dead,cap each one with a wire nut, these wires are what give power to the ballast.
Look at the colors and where there connected to. I then cut the wires with my linesmans pliers after the wire nut. I do this because when you put the new ballast in it will have the same colored leads as the old one, so you can use it to help you reconnect the colors of wires to the light. After you cut the wires remove the ballast with your nut driver making sure not to lose that nut you will need it later!!! CAUTION: The ballast may be hot to the touch, put some gloves on or use a rag when handling the ballast. Install the new ballast by aligning it into the slots and the hole where the nut was. Simply fasten the nut down and the ballast should now be secured to the fixture. Now connect blue to blue, red to red, yellow to yellow using orange wire nuts. Next hook up the black wire being careful because this is your "HOT" wire to the black and the white to the white. One thing you need to do when connecting the wires is to make sure that you twist your wires together, do not just rely on the wire nut. If you do not twist your wires it could cause a fire by not having a good connection.
Place the cover back on the fixture, put some new lamps in and your done.
Turn the breaker back on at the panel, turn the switch on and let there be light. Now the bragging starts.
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Surge Protectors - External and Internal
You should have all of your home appliances running through a surge protector of some kind. It's an easy form of protection against the crippling effects of power surges and is the number one line of defense for safe guarding electronic devices and the sensitive components within them. You can provide protection for your entire home by installing a whole house surge protector at the breaker box, but internal surges can rise and still hurt your equipment beyond the protection of a whole house system.
It is better to install both types, external protection, as mentioned above; and point-of-use protection, which is a single surge protector that plugs into an outlet. In the event of a lightning storm, your external protection can't stop a direct blast of lightning as the surge will be too much for it to absorb. But the surge can filter out throughout your home and the threat can be lessened at an individual appliance where single surge protection is used.
As for your external protection, it may be destroyed by a lighting blast and in that case, will need to be replaced. However, if the strike was at a distance and a surge is caused by affected underground lines, then you will have nothing to worry about as that is exactly what external surge protection is made for. It will protect your home at the point of entry, either at the power meter or on the internal line side of your breaker box.
While that is a lot of information to absorb there is still the matter of choosing the right protection for your appliances. If you look through any surge protector reviews you will see countless types of surge protectors for every kind of appliance. The first and foremost rule on choosing the right protection is to know the difference between a 6 outlet surge protector and a power strip. And the answer you are looking for is simple: a power strip does not protect you from power surges.
A power cord will only provide you a way to plug a lot of appliances into your wall outlet and expose them to surges in electricity. While the two can look the same, only one will benefit you. This will be the one with a Joules rating on the package. This will be the surge protection device that will save your electronics and still allow you to plug a lot of appliances into your wall outlet.
Joules is simply the measure of power that can be absorbed by an appliance surge protector.
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
Easy Household Electrical Tests
Electrical things not working? You can test hundreds of electrical things in your home from appliances to batteries. It's really quite easy.
Electrical devices convert electricity into another form of energy. Included are large and small appliances, computers, telephones, lighting, and lots more. Electrical things convert electrical energy into movement, heat, cold, light, sound, images, and many other useful services.
All you need to test electrical household things is a low-cost continuity tester or a multimeter available at hardware stores. You can buy a continuity tester for less than .00. A multimeter (under ) measures the amount of power (voltage) being applied, electricity (current) being used, and how much resistance it needs to overcome to do the job. Power is measured in volts (V), current is counted in amperes or amps (A), and resistance is calculated in ohms (O).
There's one more electrical term you've probably heard. Defining it will come in handy as you fix electrical devices. A watt is the amount of power consumed by an electrical device when it is running. A 750-watt toaster, for example, uses 750W (watts) of power when toasting your wheat, rye, sourdough, or other bread in the morning.
Continuity Tester
Electricity needs a continuous path or circuit in order to flow. It's like a two-lane road from point A to point B and back. If one or both lanes are blocked, traffic--in this case, electricity--stops. A continuity tester is useful for checking cords and wires to make sure they can conduct electricity.
To use a continuity tester, follow these steps:
1. Disconnect the cord from the power source (electrical receptacle).
2. Make sure any switches on the device are on.
3. Place the continuity tester's clip on one prong of the cord.
4. Touch the tip of the continuity tester to the other prong. If there is continuity, the tester will light up. If not, it won't.
Here's what happens: The continuity tester sends electricity from an internal battery through one cord prong and down the wires. If the light gets electrical current from the other prong it lights up, meaning that the path is good. Otherwise, something is stopping it. Remove the cord from the appliance and test each of the two wires separately to see which one doesn't work. If both work, the short is in the appliance itself.
Multimeter
A multimeter (also called a volt-ohmmeter or VOM) is another way of testing continuity. Use it to measure the amount of alternating current (AC or household current) or direct current (DC or battery current) in a plugged-in or live circuit. It can check voltage, too. For example, a multimeter can verify that there are about 120 volts in an AC circuit or that a 9-volt battery is fully charged. In addition, a multimeter can check resistance. A continuity tester checks resistance, but answers yes or no. A multimeter checks resistance and reports how many ohms (the measurement of resistance) a circuit carries.
You can use a multimeter to test motors, switches, controllers, and many other electrical gadgets. Refer to the multimeter's instruction sheet for specifics.
Here's how to use a multimeter to test an electric appliance:
1. Disconnect the cord from the power source, except when testing a live circuit.
2. Plug the test leads in to the multimeter.
3. Select the function (ACV, DVC, resistance) and the range (maximum reading expected).
4. Connect the probes to the cord or appliance component.
5. Interpret the reading. Refer to the product manual for tips on what may be wrong and what you can do about it. In addition, there are numerous resources online.
Don't let a simple electrical problem keep you from using the power of electricity. A couple of simple electrical tests can help you in fixing household things that break -- instead of tossing them.
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Friday, December 2, 2011
DC TO DC volt footfall up advocate for newman engine
hello to all in this video i like to share same info about a circuit i find in 1 of my electronic books. its a step up dc to dc converter that can bi scald to Anny volt setup u like. and i think its very suitable for using for the NEWMAN ENGINE
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Saturday, November 26, 2011
Home Solar Power Systems - How Many Kilowatts (kWs) Are Created?
The first thing you might ask - what is solar radiation and how does it related to solar generated electricity? A good question and one that is discussed in one of our article dedicated to home solar power. This article, on the other hand, explains how kilowatts are calculated based upon the energy output of your solar array. We will also highlight the difference between solar cells connected in parallel versus in series.
The average American home uses about 25 kWh of electricity per day. The following example illustrates how to calculate the power produced by a residential solar energy system. By consulting a solar radiation map, we find that a house receives 5 hours of direct solar radiation a day, averaged out throughout the year.
Solar radiation maps are highlighted on may websites throughout the Internet. You can do a quick search for "solar radiation" to find one. They essentially plot the amount of sunlight based upon time of year and physical location that will hit the United States in any given area.
Calculating the power from a solar energy system
Divide the average kWh per day by the average sun hours per day. For this example, we take 25 kWh divided by 5 hours of sun per day = 5 kW system This 5 kW system will generate 25 kWhs under optimal conditions in direct sunlight for 5 hours, or 25 kWh on an average day with some at peak production and most of the sunlight at less than optimal angles.
Future articles related to solar energy will continue to explain the effects of sun angle, reflection, and refraction on the design, output, and installation of solar panels.
Energy as it Pertains to Solar Modules
Individual solar modules that are measured in watts have a particular voltage (around 40 volts) and a particular amperage (around 5 amps). A solar module with 40 volts and 5 amps is called a 200-watt module, which means that it has the potential to produce 200 watts of electricity when in direct sunlight, away from trees or shading, and clear of snow or debris. Since most electrical components around your house are only rated for 600 volts DC, it is rare to see a solar array with a string larger the 15 solar modules. On the other hand, since inverters need a minimum voltage or pressure to turn them on, you will seldom have a solar array with a string solar modules with a size smaller then 6.
Electrical components, like solar cells, panel modules or batteries, can be connected in either series or parallel. This makes a big difference in the total quantities of energy produced from the solar energy system, as well as the stability of the technology over time. Each solar module or component has a positive and a negative pole. In essence, this is the same way batteries have their negative and positive poles arranged. Take a look at how you but batteries in a flashlight. Same idea here. The manner in which these poles are connected makes a big difference. Connect Solar Panels in Series
When you connect residential solar energy systems in series, you connect the positive (+) pole on one component to the negative (-) pole on the next. When modules are connected in series, the voltages are added. Adding voltage together in this fashion creates a long chain of solar modules all working together, depending upon each other, and creating a flow of current that increases along the length of the system.
These modules in series are called Strings. The average string is 8-12 modules so the voltage would be 320 - 480. Unfortunately, we encounter some negative aspects of of this type of construction.
Connecting Solar Panels in Parallel
When you connect solar panels or components in parallel, you connect the panels so current can travel to your inverter and to your house via multiple paths. Unlike adding solar modules in series which increases the volume of current as it goes, the solar panels connected in parallel has the effective of leaving the current or volume of electricity passing through the system the same.
Solar panels or strings of solar arrays tied together in parallel are called parallel systems. Their amps are combined together but the total voltage remains the same. Adding amps is like increasing the volume, the pressure stays the same but the volume goes up. Inverters can only handle so much volume so you will seldom see more than 1 to 3 strings in parallel; positive ends to positive ends with negative ends to negative ends.
One of the advantages of parallel connection is that electricity continues to flow, even though one of the components (or strings) is damaged. If a system is entirely in series, one damaged component stops the entire system. You may remember the ever-frustrating Christmas lights that were connected in series. Often difficult to trouble shoot, strings of lights connected in series are hard to fix when one bulb blew out. Now, the modern Christmas lights are connected in parallel. You can see this because there are two wires connecting each lamp. You can feel this via their less frustrating maintenance and operation.
Options for Residential Solar Energy Systems
In this article, we explained in some detail how solar modules calculate the power they produce as well as how connecting solar arrays in series or parallel can have an large impact on energy output as well as complexity of design. Our next article will cover how sun angle affects solar energy systems and how to quantify the solar power produced from the sun.
New solar energy system rentals allow you to upgrade your home to solar generated electricity with no large system to purchase. You can rent the solar energy equipment needed to generate up to 100 percent of your electricity needs. Exciting aspects related to clean, green solar energy are emerging all around us.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Power Bright ML2300-24 2300 Watt 24 Volt DC To 110 Volt AC Power Inverter
!±8± Power Bright ML2300-24 2300 Watt 24 Volt DC To 110 Volt AC Power Inverter
Brand : Power Bright | Rate : 
| Price : $241.01
Post Date : Nov 22, 2011 03:13:34 | Usually ships in 24 hours
| Price : $241.01Post Date : Nov 22, 2011 03:13:34 | Usually ships in 24 hours
- 2300 watts continuous power
- 4600 watts peak power
- Anodized aluminum case provides durability
- Built-in Cooling Fan
- Heavy Duty
More Specification..!!
Power Bright ML2300-24 2300 Watt 24 Volt DC To 110 Volt AC Power Inverter
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Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Monday, October 24, 2011
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Cobra 1000W DC-to-AC Power Inverter - Input Voltage:12V DC - Output Voltage:120V AC - 1000W Modified Sine Wave
!±8±Cobra 1000W DC-to-AC Power Inverter - Input Voltage:12V DC - Output Voltage:120V AC - 1000W Modified Sine Wave
Brand : Genuine COBRA ELECTRONICS CORPORATIONRate :
Price :
Post Date : Oct 19, 2011 05:36:05
Usually ships in 24 hours
This inverter provides household power on the go! It converts battery power to 120 V AC household power, allowing you to power up office equipment and household appliances from your vehicle. This unit is ideal for laptops, TV sets, video games, CD players, DVD players, cellular phone chargers, and much more!.
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